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My wiring did not completely pass inspection. For a tractor that will be working in all sorts of weather, weatherproof is absolutely necessary for long-term reliability. Is this excessive? Yes it would be, if this was a trailer-queen that will never get wet. How many battery cables have you seen with the insulation pulled out of the terminal exposing the copper wire? My new cables were covered with heat shrink at both ends to prevent that. My ground cable turned out to be made up from two pieces with a big lump of tape in the middle and one replacement clamp-on terminal. This is where nothing less than perfect will do. BATTERY CABLESĭo not forget to inspect battery cables. I'm not sure what the hand cleaner might do to the insulation over time, but I've cleaned every type of wire and boot this way for many years with no problems. Get some on a rag and pull each wire thru the rag. If wires are just dirty, the hand cleaner with lanolin works great. If any part of the harness does not pass this inspection, it should be replaced. What can be seen of the insulated wire should have good color, be flexible, and not appear cracked, burnt, or previously hacked.
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If no glue appears at the ends when shrunk, it's not marine-grade and it's not weatherproof. Marine-grade heat shrink has a glue layer on the inside. Any exposed copper wire should be covered with marine grade heat shrink. Crimp on terminals with the loose insulation sleeves are worse than useless for a tractor. The wires should be crimped and soldered to the terminals. Don't squirt WD40 in any electronic equipment though.Īfter cleaning LOOK at the wiring harness and terminal ends. WD40 works as a moisture chaser for terminals and bulb sockets if you don't have the real thing. Any vinegar splashed or spilled must be neutralized with baking soda and rinsed clean. Use small containers for the two solutions. Rinse completely clean with water, then spray with contact cleaner to dry and protect the terminals. Immediately after removing from the vinegar they must be thoroughly rinsed in baking soda/water solution to neutralize the mild acid. One way to fix blue-green copper corrosion is to wash terminal ends in a solution of vinegar and a couple tablespoons of salt for about two minutes. Most of the problems remain on the tractor with the wiring harness. After drying for several hours, the screws were snugged just enough to make sure we have a water-tight seal at that seam (not so much that the RTV is forced completely out). Screws were left a bit loose to leave a small gap that was filled with black RTV sealant. Cutting a new rubber gasket from an old tire tube was tedious, but free. Powder-Coating is great for the impatient! By the time the face was finished, the powder-coated frame was completely cool and ready to be re-assembled. After that, the wide lines around gauge openings, and pointers were easy. A fine tip artist brush was used to fill-in the lines with paint. It was tedious, but working with a straightedge, X-Acto knife, and scraper, the rust was cleaned out of the lines. All those fussy black and silver lines seemed impossible to duplicate. The face almost got painted a single color. While the frame was cooking in the oven, the face and gauge pointers needed attention. Dry powder also sticks better to warm metal. Pre-cooking helps to thoroughly dry the part, reducing blemishes that occur when curing powder paint in the oven. Powder is cured by cooking at 350 for 20 - 30 minutes. The pitted and weathered cast frame was carefully sanded, cooked at 350 degrees for 20 minutes, sanded again, degreased with alcohol, then powder-coated gloss black. It took 6 tries to cut a new glass from several small pieces carefully stored away for something like this. How many things are going to have to come off to get a wrench on the spark plugs?ĭarn! The glass broke while attempting to pry the bezel loose from the gaskets. At first glance, this appears to be thoughtless design that has become standard on modern cars. The spark plugs are completely buried under the battery tray. The spark plug wires leave the distributor and disappear. It was starting to look like this tractor may be too new for me to enjoy working on it. The issue with this job was using a ready-made length, and leaving the two loose flare nuts rattling around on the tubing. The wiring run in steel fuel line would have been ok.
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FORD 3000 TRACTOR IDENTIFICATION CODES CRACKED
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